Pietra Trousers Love or Hate!


During the last six months with the world going upside down, I’ve had more time to sew. Since, like everyone else working from home and spending more time at home, the need for comfy trousers was bigger than before.

Quite a few of the people I’m secretly stalking on Instagram or other social media outlets have been raving about the Pietra Trousers from Closet Core (former Closet Case), as a result, I’ve been pulled on the Pietra bandwagon. Thanks to my lovely friend, Gemma (MustacioedThreads), who gifted me this pattern I was ready to roll.

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The main reason this pattern appeals to me is the flat front while being a pull on trouser. My favourite view of this pattern for me is View B (the tapered leg). So far, I made these trousers 3 times and I am not sure if I love them or hate them.

As my measurements put me in size 8 for the waist and size 10 for the hips, I decided to make a wearable muslin for the trousers by making the shorts in size 10 with no other changes, just to check the fit.

The trousers are super quick to make so it did not take me long to make them. However, I took me some time to figure out how to insert the elastic into the back and have a clean finish. On my first version, the inside is not as pretty, as my other 2 versions.

For the shorts, I used leftover fabric from other projects and included contrasting pockets. The fit on the straight size 10? I find it way too lose even though I used shorter elastic for the back.

I’m happy with the length on the shorts as they are not too long and not too short. However, I feel that the front is pulled too far towards the back. This is more obvious when using contrast fabric for the pocket.

Because of this I am not too sure I’ll wear these shorts too often, which means they will end up being donated to the charity.

With my lesson from the shorts, when I made view B, I decided to modify the size 10 I had and removed 4 cm from the waist tapering into nothing at the hips (1 cm on the side seam at the front and1 cm on the side seam at the back). The other modification to the original pattern that I made was to shorten the length by 5 cm (though I could have gone a little shorter to match the length on the pattern samples). Again I used a shorter piece of elastic for the back waistband.

I insisted on using contrast fabric for the pockets to show off the pocket part. The fit was better around the waist an the front was not pulled back as much as in the first version. However, I found that that the front crotch is too long for me. Grrr… They look ok if I don’t move.

I wonder if this is the reason (the front is longer and the elastic pulls the front past the side seam into the back) the designer chose to use solid colours for the samples they use to advertise the pattern. If you look carefully at the pictures you will notice that the front is pulled into the back.

Using a lazy method I removed 2 cm of the centre front piece in the crotch area. This way I only adjusted one pattern piece instead of two, possibly 3 (front pocket). And tried again. This time I took my cue from the samples on the designer’s website and used the same solid colour fabric (navy blue poly cotton) for the third version, and used two tone ombre thread to topstitch for some added detail.

Although the fit was better, I still feel that the front crotch is too long and even if it’s not so obvious the front is pulled towards the back way too much for my liking. I’m still in two minds whether or not it’s worth my to try to modify the front for the crotch again.

Sewing Summary:

Pattern: Pietra Trouser pattern* from Closet Core* is part of Rome Collection, the Pietra Pants & Shorts are the best of both worlds; a flat front, high-waisted silhouette with the comfort of an elastic waist in the back. Featuring lengthening panels in the front with slanted hip pockets and a hidden waist stay, you’ll never want to take them off. Choose between four leg styles: a wide leg in floor-skimming or cropped length (View A), a slim and tapered leg (View B), or gently flared shorts (View C).

Sizing: 0-20 and 14-30 (PDF) and 0-20 (Print only)

Fabric: between 1 m to 3 m depending on style and size. This pattern can be made with a variety of fabrics depending on the desired effect. For a more defined shape, use structured wovens such as linen, chambray, or lightweight denim or twill (heavyweight wovens may create too much volume at the elastic waist). For a swishy, glamorous look, use rayon challis, tencel, or silk. I used about 1 m for the shorts and 1.5 m each or the long trousers

Notions: 2” (50mm) wide elastic (1 yd / .9m), Lightweight non-stretch fusible interfacing (.25 yd / .25m)

Modifications: For the first pair view C shorts) I cut a straight size 10 asper my body measurements. For the second pair – view B version 1 – overall, I removed 4 cm of the side seam at the waist tapering into nothing at the hips ( 1 on the front side and 1 cm on the back) and shortened the trouser length by 5 cm. Then for View B version 2 – I also shortened the front crotch by 2 cm (used the the lazy method and only adjusted the centre front piece only )

Instructions: The pattern is a beginner project so they are easy to follow. The only bit that took me 2 goes what how to attach the elastic on the back waistband and have a clean finish inside.

Fit: 1: full size 10 – was off even though I used a smaller piece of elastic for the back. The trousers are way too big for me. 2. modified size 10 – better, but the front crotch is too long and I don’t really want to wear them. 3 – modified size 10 version 2

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?: yes.

Watch out for: read the instructions that explain how to insert the elastic in a few times to make sure you understand how it goes in and be aware that the front crotch might be a bit too long.

Make Again?: I am still in two minds whether or not to waste my time to modify this pattern further to make another version or not. I still feel that the front crotch is too long for my body.

Paper versions of this pattern can also be purchased from Minerva* – Pietra Trouser pattern*

Did you make this pattern? How did you find it? Do you think that the front crotch is too long as well? Please let me know your opinion in the comments.

2 comments

  1. Hi. Similar to you, I’ve made 3 versions of the tapered trousers and a couple of pairs of shorts. I want to love them, and they are easy to wear, but I also feel that I haven’t got the fit right. I made my second pair in a pretty robust twill and the crotch issue is really pronounced – there seems to be excess fabric which didn’t help the more I took in the side-seam. I initially thought too that it was too long, but came to the conclusion that the crotch curve might need scooping out a bit – it’s fairly flat if you look at the front pattern piece. Having said that, it’s obviously a great pattern that we want to make the effort to get it right! Incidentall one of the pairs of shorts I made was in a drapy viscose linen and the crotch issue wasn’t nearly as noticeable.

    • I did not think the curve is not deep enough. I think you might be right there. At some point when I revisit this pattern, I’ll try taking in the pattern at the waist at the Centre Front and deepen the curve.

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