To kick off my collaboration with the Fabric Guys I picked a soft 100% rayon red and black on grey fabric from their spring/autumn collection. With autumn around the corner, I fancied making myself a pussy bow style blouse. For this I picked Holly blouse from StyleArc Patterns.
Once, I received the fabric my first order of business was to put it in the wash, to make sure that any shrinking will happen before I make my blouse. However, once washed I hit the first trouble. Someone got so excited ordering the fabric that she did not check the width of the fabric. Ops! I ordered 1.5 m of fabric, that’s the suggested amount for a fabric that’s 160 cm wide. As a result, I had to be really creative at cutting out my pattern pieces. No matter how I tried I could not cut the back facing from the rayon (I had to use a different fabric for it, but nobody apart from you will know :)) My word of advice from this is: ‘Always check the width of the fabric you order!’
Over the years, I’ve learnt the hard way that once I cut my fabric I have to stay-stitch or stabilise the necklines to prevent them form stretching out of shape. I tend to use 12mm iron on bias tape. However, a row of stitches within the seam allowance does the trick as well. Once that’s out of the way, sewing can begin.
Although the fabric has a lot of drape it’s not very difficult to work with. It does slide when cutting, so it is not as easy as working cotton or more stable fabrics. By going slow and taking your time, you can achieve good results. When working with lighter fabrics I prefer to finish the seams after they are sewn together on my overlocker. It gives them a more professional finish.
Sometimes, I find that under-stitching the facing, is not enough and it still flaps about. For those times when I do not want to put any stitching on the right side of the garment, I opt for stitching the facing to the shoulder seam allowance. That way the facing stays in place.
My blouse came together quite fast, as it is a simple style. I am really grad that I used this rayon for it. It gives the top a lovely feel.
The pattern on the fabric makes this top perfect for the autumn. My preferred styling will be to tuck it into my skirt/trousers.
However, to show you how the fabric drapes I’ve taken a few pictures with the blouse not tucked in.
This fabric is suitable for garments that are loose, such as blouses and dresses, maybe even skirts. I think an advanced beginner will manage to work with it just fine. I do not recommend using it for garments that require structure, as the fabric is lightweight.
Details: fabric: 1.5 m 100% rayon red and black on grey the fabric is 112 cm wide ; pattern: StyleArc’s Holly blouse I cut size 8 ; modifications: I lengthened the neck tie (made it out of 4 pieces of fabric) and lowered the bust dart by 1.5 cm; notions: none
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