As this year I turned 40, I wanted for my birthday to go a little wild and make something that is not quite suitable for everyday wear. That’s how I picked the McCall’s 7927 (by David Tutera). Before I made the actual dress , in collaboration with Minerva for their Blogger Network (link to my post here), I made a wearable toile to check that the changed I made to the pattern will work in the finished dress.
Unlike the main dress (which I am calling birthday dress) for the wearable toile, I made the short version of the dress, using fabrics from my stash (if memory serves me well, they were from Abakhan). I cut a size 12. McCall’s patterns have more ease than I like and with all big 4 patterns I size down to get a fit I am happy with.
The whole process started with me adjusting the paper pattern : shortened the bodice above the bust by 1 cm (a normal adjustment for me) and a 1.5 cm swayback and then making a quick muslin to check the fit.
After trying the mulsin on, I decided that the whole bodice needs to be shortened by 1.5 cm. I did not shorten the skirt at all and it was a good idea.
For the lining I used contrasting colour. The fabric I worked with was not the easiest of fabrics to work with, as it slides a lot and frays.
With many darts to sew on and different thread colours, I worked on both the lining and the main fabric at the same time. Also, by making the full dress I had the opportunity to test the process of making it.
As I prefer to insert the zipper before I sew the shoulder seams, I started improvising. It did work out but I sort of sewn the back pieces together and inserted the zipper. However, you cannot do the same with the front pieces as you need add the insert in between the main fabric and lining and then facing.
As a result of my messing about, I had to add a few extra-steps to make sure the lining is sewn together properly. I did end up with a few holes in the lining because I could not get through the whole seam on the machine. However, this can be easily fixed by hand.
I am so glad that I did not shorten the skirt on the short dress. It would have been too short for my liking.
Overall I found the fit as I wanted it. In the final dress I did tweak the pattern a little more, by shortening the modesty panel by about 1.5 cm and shaved of 0.5 cm of the shoulder width, blending into nothing on going into the armscye.