A few weeks ago I showed you the trousers I made for August for MinervaCraft Blogger Network using the Simplicity #8264 (Cynthia Rowley range) and mentioned that I made a wearable toile. In this post, I’ll show you the muslin/toile, which I made using a stretch cotton from Abakhan Fabrics.
I have quite a lot of patterns from Cynthia Rowley range for Simplicity, but until now I have not made many of them. Recently, I felt it was about time to start making them up as I really like the styles. From this pattern, I chose to make the trousers version (view C).
Usually, with Simplicity patterns, I tend to use sizes 10 or 12 (although my measurements put me in size 14) because the patterns themselves have a lot of ease. On checking the finished garment measurements, I realised that there is not much ease in this pattern, so I started with a wearable muslin/toile. Contrary to the advice to use the same fabric for the toile, I wanted to use this stretch cotton in my stash (and account for this when judging the fit, as the other pair was to be made from fabric that does not have much stretch if any). Looking at the pattern envelope the hem on the trousers hits at the ankle. However I want them to be longer on me, so I did not shorten them at all.
For the toile, I did not add the pockets, as they do not have an effect on the fit and the pattern on the fabric would have dictated me to pattern match them (which would have been wasteful). The trousers are very simple to construct, so I did not use the instructions that come with the pattern at all. To insert the zipper I used a technique I learnt from Kenneth D. King on YouTube ( Here is a link if you want to check it out), which is a technique that works best for me with invisible zippers.
Yes, I like to leave my basting stitches in. It’s one of my little secrets that go into some of my garments. Well, I can put it down as laziness on my part as well (I might be too lazy to take it out!). Besides, no one can see them when I wear them.
I realised that I have a huge list of Craftsy classes and I guilted myself into looking at some of them. Sara Alm’s Mastering Construction: Zippers and Waistbands gave me the idea to use some woven tape to finish of seam on the waistband facing which reduced the bulk in the area as well as helped me stitch in the ditch from the from and still catch the fabric on the inside of the garment. Also, the purple tape I used adds a little cute detail to my trousers. Because the trousers would be too tight, I used a 1 cm seam allowance rather than 1.5 cm. This worked fine for me, as, although they were tight they still fitted me. Phew! That stretch in the fabric really helped. After wearing them for a day they actually got looser. So, it seems in this fabric a size 12 was a good idea. Once I wash them, they’ll shrink back. I decided that for my next trousers it will be better to cut a size 14 because the fabric I wanted to use for my second pair of trousers did not have any give so they would not stretch around my thighs making moving a bit uncomfortable and that they would probably tear apart when sitting down. Please check out my post on Minerva Blogger Network for details and pictures of my seconds make here.