So managed to finish my muslin made part of my Craftsy class – Fast-Track Fitting with Joi Mahon. Well sort of. I got lazy towards the end and skipped the sleeve. It’s been fun following the class and making the necessary changes to my paper pattern.
I downloaded and printed the PDF attachment of the class took my measurements, with a bit of help of course. Then I traced the pattern included with the class. I got a size 14. Yeah, Vogue for you. For the front I went against Joi’s suggestion to use the B cup pattern, and used the cup C pattern. . (I am one of those that don’t like cutting the original pattern, just in case my shape changes drastically and an new size is needed or I feel like making the same garment for someone else, I know slim chances but there is a chance. )
Following Joi’s instructions I had to change the all my pattern pieces. At first I though I need to reduce all vertical measurements since I am petite. But here are my findings and impressions of class instructions.
For the front bodice I had to reduce the vertical measurement between neck and bust by 1 cm. Because I used the pattern piece for C cup no full bust adjustments were needed, however I suspect that when I will use patterns that only have cup B patterns from Vogue. I think different patterns from other companies would need different changes. Also I decreased the side by 0.5 cm and then needed to add 1 cm at the waist. The orange line was there because at first I thought of reducing it at the centre seam, but then changed my mind.
Then on the back not much to do than to take out of the centre seam 2cm or total of 4 across the back, which I expected I needed to make smaller on the horizontal measurements, but not by this much. Also as for the front the pattern needed to be reduced between bust and shoulder seams. Will try with patterns to trace bigger size for front and one smaller for the back and see how that goes. But we will have to see.
As for the skirt pattern’s I as gobsmacked to see that I needed to increase the pattern between the waist and hips by as much as 2.3 cm. Waw that really was a shock. Of course I needed to raise the hem or knee point by about 3 cm. And as for the back bodice the the centre back was reduced by 2 cm on the horizontal measurements.
Green line appeared from one side, once I put the muslin together there seemed one side was to small so traced it just in case. but on the other side it was ok. So I suspect I cut one side to small and it did not match properly.
As you can imagine I had to make the sleeves smaller both vertically (about 3 cm) and horizontally (another 3). By this stage kind of thought I know better and rather than follow Joi’s suit. I thought that since I needed to take out 3 cm from both sleeve cap and with. I slashed the sleeve on the centre line and deducted my 3cm (1.5 from each side). Everything seems ok. but then again I was lazy and skipped the bit with adding a sleeve to my muslin.
So glad I took this class. I am not very keen on making muslins and I was looking for a way of adjusting/fitting the patterns before I even have to cut my fabric. All this making several muslins to achieve the right fit is so not for me. I admire all the people out there who have the patience and skill to actually do this. Me no way! I am to lazy for that.
Overall I am very please with the muslin. I manage to get in a small zip and it makes it a bit difficult to put it on. I know there are a few lines in the back. But I was testing how close to a good fit I can get by only changing the paper pattern. And the answer to that, it pretty close.
What I learnt from this class? Well, a few things:
how easy it is to adjust patters on paper
you don’t need to do several muslins to achieve a good fit
each pattern company has a different standard and you don’t always have to assume they are fit the same. (Well I knew this before, but it was reinforced by this class)
a few more things about my body shape and measurements.
All in all I am happy with is as it helped me achieve what I wanted and that is fit patterns on paper, without having to draft them.