As I was going through my clothes deciding what stays and what goes I found that most my pants are ill fitted at the back. I put them to the side for a while, but today I’ve decided that it is about time to make a dent in the rather large pile of stuff that needs to be repaired or fixed or even refashioned.
Gaping band at the back; I’m having this problem with most pants I buy in store. (It some times happens with skirts but not to often). If I get the size that fits my waist they will not fit on my hips as they are a bit bigger, so i have to get the pants in the size that fits my hips, which is normally one size up from my waist, which means pants fill well around my hips but are big on my waist and look not to great.
While documenting my self on the internet trying to find the easiest way to do it I came across about few methods to solve this problem.
The easiest way is to add elastic the the band. (not that pretty inside, but effective. And lets face it, no one will look inside, especially when you wear your pants 🙂 ) I used this on a paid of 3/4 stretch paid of jeans. As my pants have two belt loops right at the centre back, and still want them to be there, I found it easier to add elastic to each side of them. Basically you need a piece of elastic about 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) (I cut mine in half). You put in in the inside of the pant band and sew it in, by stretching the elastic. Do not stretch your pants’ band. No need for it. If you have belt loops you need to go around, just stop your stitch before the loop and restart it after. All you need to do after is to try your pants on. No more gaping. Yes!!!!
Adding darts. I tend to either use one dart in the centre back or two darts. Just measure the amount you need to take out. If you are making one dart, then you need to remember that when you re-draw the centre seam line you need to start at the crotch and re-do the stitch gradually, so that the new line looks natural and you do not get some pleat as there is extra fabric left. (I’ve done it as I did not do deep enough and my pants look daft. Now sorted that problem). If there is to much excess just over lock and cut away. With my pants I’ve cut corners and made the dart through the band as well. (I do intend to wear the pants with tops that cover that bit anyway so will not be seen.
If you chose to do two darts, either because all the other seams around are French seams or just because you feel like it you need to split the total amount you are taking out and split it into two smaller darts. I measured mine and set them about 7cm (or 3 inches) from the centre seam) and then machine stitched by using the one thread dart. Your pants might look weird to you, but I call that as designer feature. Just makes your pants different.
Side seam adjustment. I think this is the hardest method of them all. It is best used when the side seam is simple, you do not you have complicated pockets attached and your waist bank is not continuous. Once you’ve decided how much you need to take our you need to split that into four. Then unpick your side seams, low enough and re-draw the side seam lines making sure they are uniform (Here you can decide if you want to take more from the back or from the front. Just make sure you do the same on both sides). And re-construct the pants. They will look great. I do not have pictures of items I’ve done using this method. I’ve only done it once to a pair of pants for my mum. She was happy with them once I’ve modified them, saying they look as if she both them like that. 🙂
Sorry for the only after pictures. I did not think about making a post about this until I’ve already finished them all.
UPDATE on my other projects. I’ve finished the Burda dress. Just needs to go in the wash and take the final pictures. Also I’ve managed to misplace the fabric I was to use on the underpants tutorial, so now I’ve decided to go with another. I’ll be starting on it soon. And I’ve gone back to some UFOs (you know them great projects that at some point go wrong but you don’t throw them away. I’m getting closer to finish this great bubble dress, hopefully will look good on the outside. the inside its very untidy.